Shilin and Raohe night markets

Taipei is a city of markets. Night markets, morning markets, clothes markets, dry goods markets; it seems like there's an open air market down every alley and around every corner. Typically the markets in Taipei exist on the sidelines. There are many broad avenues in Taipei with large, corporate stores selling international brands. But inevitably, the little lane that runs behind the big avenue will contain a street market, with mom and pop stalls selling all kinds of traditional products, each one a little bit different from the next.

Two of the most famous night markets in Taipei are Shilin and Raohe night markets. First opened in 1899, Shilin is by far the largest and most popular night market in Taipei. The market opens around sundown, but the action doesn't really get going until late in the evening. Shilin is comprised of two distinct sections, one housed underground which is exclusively dedicated to food vendors, and another section above ground, surrounding the market building, which has food vendors, clothing vendors, massage parlors and convenience stores. In addition to the market proper, the streets and side alleys surrounding the market are also full of small stalls selling all kinds of goods, so the line where the market stops and the neighborhood begins is difficult to determine.

On my first visit, I only explored the outer market. Most of the food stalls here sell rather simple dishes, and offer no seating.

On my second visit, I found my way to the inner, indoor market, where there are more sophisticated food vendors with seating and more elaborate menus. It was here that I discovered Taiwanese teppanyaki. Teppanyaki is a style of Japanese cooking that uses an iron griddle to grill the food, with diners sitting around the grill while the chef cooks, a la Benihana. But unlike the famous North American chain, the teppanyaki joints in Shilin night market are mom and pop affairs, grilling up delicious Japanese/Taiwanese fusion cuisine at rock bottom prices. 

The first time I visited the teppankai in Shilin I ordered grilled chicken paired with lemon salmon, which also came with bean sprouts, green vegatables, miso soup and rice. With a can of Taiwan beer, my total came to about 250 TWD, or about $8 US. The chef took incredible care cooking the chicken and salmon, and placed the food on strips of tin foil which stay on the grill, keeping the food hot while I ate. I've been back twice since then, and each time is more delicious than the last!

Raohe Street night market is considerably smaller than Shilin, despite the rather austentatious decorated archway at the front entrence. 

Raohe is distinctly less tourity than Shilin (although nothing is very touristy in Taiwan). The stalls are smaller but most have seating. 

I tried a variety of foods at Rahoe, but my biggest discovery was baobing: a Taiwanese shaved ice dessert that is particularly delicious on a steamy Taiwanese summer night. 

First a large block of ice is inserted into a machine, often hand cranked, which turns the block into a pile of delicate shavings. 

Then the ice shavings are arranged in a mound on your plate, and used as a base for a variety of toppings: red bean, peanuts, taro, mango, and grass jelly are all popular. 

Sweetended, condensed milk and sugar cane syrup are often poured over the top to give the desert it's final touch.

Since that night in Rahoe, I've enjoyed baobing on many occasions and in many forms: a small indulgence, actually quite healthy, and a little slice of Taiwanese culinary culture.